Pattern Review: Butterick 5189 Dressing Gown

Recently I made another of my planned makes for #2020make nine – the dressing gown – as a gift.

Details

  • Pattern Name: 6232
  • Variation/style: Dressing Gown
  • Design House: Butterick
  • Size I made: L

Fabric

The main fabric is a polyester brocade and the lining is a red terry cloth.  The brocade is woven and the terry cloth is knit fabric.  Both are from Fabricland.

Using a knit and woven was quite challenging as they act very differently to one another, and I would recommend to avoid using them together in a project like this if possible.  The terry cloth was happy to stretch away and the blocade was slippery.  However, I could not find a towelling fabric I liked and the terry cloth matched the brocade nicely.

Difficulty

I’d say this is good for a confident beginner pattern-wise but it does depend on the fabric choice.  If you use towelling, there is a nap to it to consider (direction of the fabric) and it can be quite thick to sew as well, which can create its own challenges.

However, there are no challenging zips or fastenings.  The patch pocket and amount of top stitching may be tricky, but also may not show too much depending on your fabric choice.

Clarity

I found the instructions lovely and clear apart from on how to hem the garment.  I ended up leveling off the hem first, then pressing/tacking the hem allowance up, then tacking the lining and main sides together before slip stitching together and finishing off with top stitching.

Design and Fit

It is a relaxed fit so the fit was not too challenging.  The main issue has been the hem without the recipient to hand (as it is a gift).  I love the idea that it could be reversible.  The collar adds definition and the pockets are roomy.  It doesn’t have tabs to secure the tie which is a shame, but fairly easy to rectify.  It is also difficult to position until you try it on as well to get the position correct.  If I ever come across this pattern in my own size, I would be very tempted to make one for myself. (my copy is only L/XL).

Time Taken

I made this over three weeks, but it could be done in a few days or quicker with easier fabrics.

Conclusion

I’ve definitely got my money’s worth with this pattern now.  It was a charity shop find to begin with but I have made the PJ shorts a couple of times (which are great too) and this dressing gown was simple to follow and looks great.  I would recommend it, and would make it again.

You can watch my video review below:

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Continue ReadingPattern Review: Butterick 5189 Dressing Gown

Pattern Review: New Look 6232 women’s shirt

Recently I finished my biggest sewing accomplishment to date: the fitted shirt!

Details

  • Pattern Name: 6232
  • Variation/style: women’s version, C
  • Design House: New Look
  • Size I made: 14

Fabric

Main fabric: butterfly cotton poplin fabric in aqua from Minerva Crafts online

Contrast fabric: Yellow cotton poplin fabric from Truro fabrics

Both fabrics were lovely to work with, along with washing and pressing well.

Difficulty

This was a challenging make.  I have never made a garment that is quite so technical.  However, I did choose it for that very reason as well!

There is a lot of interfacing to attach (cuffs, collar..), darts on the front and back, sleeve plackets, curved hem, buttonholes, pleats, front band – essentially jam-packed with techniques and skills!  However, the fabric choice did make it easier as it is so stable!  Also, I think choosing a patterned fabric is more forgiving than plain for any wobbly stitching.

Clarity

The clarity of the pattern was okay overall.  As it is not an indie pattern, it is not as detailed, but the diagrams are clear.

The instructions do assume some prior knowledge.  For example, it does not advise you on how to ease the sleeve into the armhole; it just tells you to stitch it.

I was nervous about attaching the sleeve placket but I carefully followed the instructions and succeeded so where it does provide detailed instructions, it does it well.

Design and Fit

I did take an inch off the sides but I’m not sure this was necessary or whether it may have been better to take half as much.  I may take less off next time.

Apart from that, I did not adjust.  The sleeves are a good length for me but I do have quite long arms.  I am not happy with my front band.  I think I need to re-sew a couple of buttons so it overlaps better and I think I misaligned the top buttonhole but I can’t do much about that now.  I did re-sew the top button to minimise any gape between the top and second button.

I chose this pattern to tackle some classic shirt details such as the collar with button stand, cuffs, sleeve placket, front band and patch pockets.  It is packed with features including pleats in the sleeves.  It is a great classic shirt design.

Time Taken

It took me about 3 and a half months to complete this shirt as I took my time to gradually create it.  It took 3.5 hours to cut out all the pattern pieces alone!  There are a lot of small tasks so if you are looking for a long term project to tackle in small time windows then this could be the pattern for you.

Conclusion

This is the most technical make I have made to date and for that I am very pleased with it, and can set aside my discontent with the top buttonhole.  I am not sure if I would make another as I’m not a huge shirt wearer, but I did enjoy the techniques involved in it so perhaps Phill will finally get the shirt he requested 7 years ago…

 

You can watch my pattern review on the vlog below:

Continue ReadingPattern Review: New Look 6232 women’s shirt